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Karonga
As far as I can remember, I’ve always wanted to discover the world. When I was a kid, there was a TV show I loved and would religiously watched every week, called: “La Course Destination Monde” (“The Race Around the World”). It was a few young journalists who where sent in the world to get stories of whatever they wanted, to interview people, film them and broadcast the news in 20 minutes or so. They had to have a different story every week and they needed to be in a different part of the world every other week. Each journalist had the choice of where to go and what to report on; they had only a small budget to make it happen. They were competing against each other, so they had to be awesome, and most of the time, they were, at least to the eyes of a 7 year old like me. I was inspired and I remember I wanted to be part of it when I’d grow up. Unfortunately, after a few years, the show stopped for a lack of funds, and I was never part of it. So I guess my being here, my writing this blog is my own way of reporting about what I see and sense in a world far, in so many ways, from the one I left behind.
I’m excited to be here, to live in a challenging and different scene, to be part of the change that is slowly occurring. I humbly recognize that I’m not going to be the main reason why things change, but I will always be proud of myself for working hard at trying to make a difference, for being here on the front line and if anything else, for bringing more awareness to the Western world and hopefully changing your views and perspectives on what needs to happen, my dear readers.
I’ve been in Malawi for just over a month now, and I’ve already realized a bunch of things. I’ve had great discussions with people open to change and some frustrating ones with people who don’t want to be part of it. Change is at the door step of conventionalism, it’s waiting for people to let it in. A great example of this is what is happening right now in some universities in Malawi. The president had three excellent teachers fired a few weeks ago because they talked about the government in a negative way. I’m not quite sure what they said to their class (if anyone knows, please comment on this blog, I’d love to learn more), but the President of Malawi got upset and scared of the effect of such discussions about them on the students who are the next generation of decision makers. This is a clear evidence that freedom of speech is not yet part of Malawi. But what is surprising and different than before, and what shows a hint of willingness of student for change is that, by firing these teachers, the government created a lot of frustration at the university level; the students and some other teachers are now on strike, in the street, showing their desire for a different type of leadership. For the time being, such a behaviour will certainly be accused and reprimanded by the government, but the fact they are they are ready to cope with that to push boundaries is fantastic. I’m curious to see what is going to happen next.
I often wonder what made our society change. Not so long ago, I’m thinking about my grandparents’ generation, people in Canada use to be poor and underdeveloped. Schools and governments were under the influence or power of the Church. People were being told by the Church that they needed to procreate otherwise they were going to hell, so families would keep expending. Parents were poor, farming in some cases or working in some dodgy industry with no regulations for a small pay check. A lot of kids were not sent to school because they were too far and the families did not have the money to afford sending their kids to secondary schools, especially the girls. They would eventually get married and stay at home to raise their kids and do cores, so why bother? The road system between villages and towns was terrible. Electricity was not affordable or not provided at all, so people were using candles and fire oven. Women were washing clothes and dishes by hands. Computers were not being used and internet did not exist. And community sense was way more developed, people less selfish and individualistic. Not so long ago in Canada, things were not that different than they are here in Malawi. Even my mom grew up in such a reality and she’s only 60 year old.
I can’t help but wonder what happened, what are the steps we took to change the behaviours of an entire society. I’m not saying that all the changes we made in Canada are for the best and should be applied here, not at all, but I’m curious to see what triggers change in mind sets. The reality and culture in Canada over the last 40 years have dramatically being modified, in so many ways. What was the catalysis to all this or what were the walls that needed to fall for the rest to follow: what it religion?; what is education?; was it desire for equality and equity? was it getting better system, regulations and laws to help people?; or, was it the use of computers and eventually internet? What happened exactly, who made it happened? Can we learn from these things to help changing ways, mind sets and behaviours here in Africa. And don’t get me wrong, I don’t think the same exact things should occur here, I believe some of the habits and values that followed the changes we had in Canada are bad and are restraining us to evolve towards a right and sustainable direction. All I want is to be able to see if we can learn from the mechanisms, from our experience to help drive changes here. So if anyone has good thoughts on this subject, feel free to let me know.
I’ll leave you to your reflection on this, but I’m asking your feed back on these questions. What do you think was good and bad in the changes we made? What do you think was the catalyst reaction to change and/or what walls had to fell for the rest to follow?
Thanks and have a great day
Hope this can lead to some fantastic reflections and discussions with you guys.
Ge
Truth is, outside of the main cities in Malawi, most people don’t have running water in their house and have to walk sometimes long distance to fetch water. The waterpoints that are considered safe and protected are either a borehole, a shallow well, a tap or a protected spring. Most villages have at least a few protected waterpoints, if not many, that have been installed over the last 25 years by NGOs or government or someone else. Some remote and hardly accessible areas are less lucky and don’t have any safe water to drink. But in general, one of the problem that we see, is that waterpoint users (villagers or communities) are not willing to pay for the water (taps) or to repair their boreholes. When NGOs come to install a borehole in a community, they set a waterpoint committee. They train them to fix some of the smaller breakdowns and to do the maintenance, they also tell them that they will need to have the users raise money to cover for the expenses. This fails in most cases. The majority of the committees don’t raise money on a regular basis, but decide to ask contributions only once there is a breakdown. This leads to water shortage, sometimes for a few days, sometimes up to over a year. In some cases, people don’t want to contribute and decide to go use a different functional waterpoint further instead of contributing money to buy spare parts and get their borehole fixed. The committees don’t have enough motivation or authority over the other villagers to enforce payment. They don’t really keep track or record how much money was spent, who contributed and how much they have. They normally don’t have a bank account, so the treasurers need to keep the money at their house. Right now, I’m
doing a research to see if the traditional authorities (village’s chiefs) are taking responsibility of the waterpoints to help the committees with raising money. I’m trying to see if bylaws exist and if so if and how they are enforced. In Malawi the waterpoints in villages outside of the BOMA (city), fall under the responsibility of the community, not under the responsibility of the government or traditional authority. So if the communities are not ready to take care of it, chances are they will run out of safe waterpoints to draw their water from. It is a concern, it is a key and it is an important place to spend energy trying to find solutions to help them.
In Canada, if I didn’t have to pay my bills because no one was enforcing the laws, and if they would let me go and I would still have gaz, electricity and water even if I don’t pay , I would probably not pay. Would you? Even if I consider all these things really important to have and would not want them to break. People in villages have money, not a lot but sufficiently to cover for the amount of money that the waterpoint committees are asking them. The problem is that they prefer to spend this money somewhere else than raising money for the next repair. And when comes the next repair, they might not have the money right away because it’s the dry season and they are broken, or simply because they don’t have the will to pay, knowing that someone else in the village will eventually cover for them. No one really enforces or keep track of the payments. It’s so frustrating. I’m trying to see if bylaws and fines, or punishment exist in some villages to see if these community have a better functioning rate (waterpoint) and less water shortage. So far, I’m disappointed with the way that most villages work. It would be so easy and so much better if someone was putting their foot down and making people pay. In my interviews with chiefs and waterpoint committee’s chairmen, I’m hearing a lot of lies and non sense. It’s hard to get a good and accurate idea of what is really happening and what they trully think of their system. I saw some great chiefs though, with a lot of leadership who care about the well being of their community. These chiefs have, on the side, a development fund to assist the village. They’re either raising money on a regular basis to save in a bank account or they have small communal businesses to raise money. Example I’ve seen are: moulting bricks businesses. Some men are making them and selling them to contractors outside of the village. The money goes to the development funds. I’ve also seen a village where each waterpoint had a communal garden to take care of and the money from the sells were going to the development fund to offer assistance for the eventual repairs. Men and women were taking turns to work on it. Communities with such cooperatives seem to stand out and be a bit more self sufficient. Is this a key on how to help communities raise money? Who knows, they are not frequent enough right now for me to draw conclusions. Although it seems to be working well and it is inspiring. Could we have every chief starting such a thing, would this work in every village? Does it take a certain type of leader to have these businesses or coop running well? I’ll try to push this idea and answer these questions through my research. I still have 25 villages to visit and two or three weeks to go.
To my coworkers, think about a bad day of fieldwork or a badly managed project…this is like my everyday work here! Thinks are very poorly organized and management is definitely lacking. The main problems: Malawians seem to have a vague idea of the concept of being in time. Everyone is consistently late, and I mean up to a few hours late! Malawi has a fuel shortage, so every now and then, there is no fuel available to go in the field with the motorcycle. Other days it’s the rain forcing us to start late. Right now is the wet season, so people are busy in the field harvesting, it makes it hard to meet them. Most of the time it is a combination of all of the above and more. Some odd days are going surprisingly well though. Most days I go back home with maize, a few pumpkins, eggplants, some unknown and delicious fruits or veggies and yesterday I even got a watermelon. The people we meet are super nice and are generous. I think they are glad to be heard, to be considered in my research. Hopefully we can someday find a way to help them help themselves!
Ok, I’m done for now. I’m going to the lake now. Good way to end the day and wash the sweat away!
Ge
Sunday morning, I’m done with washing my clothes, I went to church at 7am, because that’s what people do here. My mon and dad will be so proud of me. I sat my the choir by mistake so I had to get up and sing. I realized I don’t know any of the prayers in English, but it was still easier to follow than last week as it wasn’t in Tumbuka and it was a catholic church not an African one. Thanks to my parents for sending me to a catholic school went I was a kid, so I at least knew what to do and how to receive the communion without looking too too stupid.
Religion is definitely one of the most important things in Africa. It seems to hold a lot of falling pieces together; it seems to give them hope and light in a really though place on earth. I’m not sure where I stand on this ground, but I know that having faith in whatever is a way to ease the pain and suffering of one’s. When the think they’ve been abandoned and left behind, they still have the faith that God is with them and in them, that he will save them. Part of me thinks that religion can be a really powerful and dangerous way to take control over people, sometimes leading to war and abuse. I’m not sure that each and every preacher who exists is necessary a good voice to lead people who, in most cases, blindly believe. I was in the bus the other day coming from Lilongwe and there was a preacher yelling stuff about how sickness will be cured by God, that God will save us and deliver us. He was in a twisted way taking about HIV and AIDS. He was saying that if you believe in Christ, you will not suffer, that he will protect you from it, that he will save you if you have it. I still believe that protection should come from using condoms, and I think it’s misleading to use religion to such a tangible and huge problem. I believe in spirituality and in karma, but I fear the church and the interpretation it has made to explain things. Anyway, religion can’t be that bad when it brings people together like it does here in Malawi. It gives them a reason to dress up and get together to pray for things to get better. From where I come from, we pray to get a better life as well, but I realized this morning that we have good lives, we have everything we need and so much more, what can we really wish for. What can we dream of, when a big part of this world we all share is praying for health, water and a good harvest so they can have food to survive. I’m questioning how can things be so different. It makes me sad and reflective. I don’t think I can comeback to Canada without considering my life and the way we act in a different light. We hear about people’s misery and reality, but it won’t touch you until you actually live in it and see what it means to be poor, to be sick and to fight for survival. And somehow there is so much to be learn about their internal strength to go through this with a smile, pride and courage.
I had a long chat yesterday with my friend Abell, the pastor, about beliefs, religion, relationship, culture, differences and life. He is 30 years old, has a beautiful wife and two kids. He was asking me questions about Canada, about snow, washing machine, oven, electricity, comfort. He was also interested to understand our views of parenthood and marriage, my views on relationships as well as religion. In a way I was feeling super connected to him and at the same time, so far. I think he understands and respect my differences, but can’t completely understand what I’m describing. He is well educated and open minded for a Malawien. We are good friends I think; we go running every other morning and go swim in the lake every now and then; he is also helping me learning Tumbuka. Contrary to many people, he sees me as someone just like him, not as a muzungu and he is super kind and fun. It’s good to be able to talk with someone even if there are many things I can’t tell him.
This morning I woke up to my roommate, the hen, chatting with her new born chicks. We are now 12 of us in my room: myself, the hen and the 10 chicks. I’m not counting the unwanted visitors like the scorpions, the spiders, the crickets, the termites, the ants and the frog (I kind of like the frog though as it eats the others!). Then I got dress and on my way to the latrine realized that the rain over the night destroyed it. It makes me doubt the stability of my own room as it’s made in the same way! I also learnt that my “Mama” was badly sick. Then I went to fetch water for my bucket shower.
In my next post, I’ll tell you about the findings of my research project so far. I’ll describe my work in the field with Malawians, its complexity and challenges.
Have a great Sunday
Ge
Change of plans, instead of Rumphi, I ended up in Karonga, in the north of the country, by Lake Malawi, 45 km from the border of Tanzania. We decided to change the research project to investigate on the existing bylaws in villages regarding the waterpoints and their effect on the money raised for the repairs.
Karonga is the district where Duncan use to live for the last year before he moved to Mzuzu. I’m staying with his “family” in a village by the lake, just a few kilometers from the town of Karonga (that’s where I am right now to use internet). I’ll be going all over the district on a dirt bike with Patrick, my translater, friend and also, on the side a prince of a tribe here! haha, how cool is that. He is a carpenter and past rastaman, he must be about my age.
I’ll tell you all about my life in a village as there is a myriad of things to say (sleeping on the ground, leaking roof, bucket shower, learning to speak chetumbuka and cooking nsima, church on Sunday…), but I’ll do that on my next post. For now, I really want to share something else: my trip from Mzuzu to here and also, how to get a learner’s motorcycle licence.
Keep in mind that all this happened in one day…
On Thursday morning, I woke up in Zolazola, a slum of Mzuzu, at Duncan’s. We left from there to go get my learner’s motorcycle licence. It felt like being part of my favorite cartoon Asterix et les 12 travaux. For those of you who might know what I’m talking about, think about “la maison qui rend fou” challenge. Something that would normally be taking 15 mins, took over three hours, the priviledge of being white and Duncan’s collar shirt to get through. Here are the multiple steps to go through:
Mission accomplised, I got my licence. Now we have to rush to a meeting and up on (or squeeze in) the minibus for a four hour ride on windy roads to Karonga with chickens, fishng gears, luggages and a ton of people. About 30mins from Karonga, we ran out of fuel. There is a fuel shortage in Malawi due to their fixed money in the floating market. Plus most people don’t have a ton of money to get fuel even when there is no shortage in the city! Anyway, the closest place to grt fuel is far and the driver ups on a bike to get there. At least an hour after, it’s dark and we decide to hitchhike instead of waiting. Another minibus stopped and picked us up. As soon as we arrived in Karonga at the bus depot, an unstoppable thunderstorm started. Since the village is not reachable by taxi and the bike taxi don’t want to ride the muddy path in the storm, we decided to stay at a cheap and dodgy guest house for the night.
That was day one…it’s now way more peaceful, but not easier. I’ll tell you in my post next weekend. My access to internet is really restrein and I need to be in a cafe for to get it, that is, when they don’t have an electricity outage.
Bye for now my dear readers, thanks for following me
Ge
Everyday, I realize at least one new thing we take for granted in the western world. All those things make our lives so much cozier, easier and certainly more efficient...but do they make us happier at the end of the day?
I’ve been warned before coming here about all that, but it really means nothing until you experience the absence of these convinient things. I’m talking about simple stuff: toilet paper; toilets, either attached to a building or at all; electricity; running water; fuel and transportation; internet connection, especially for work; access to education; access to a repair shop; non-corrupted government and authorities; opportunities and choice; diversity; health system; entertainment; money; credit and debit cards; real juice; cheese; pets without rabies; silence and time to reflect alone; schedules; and so many other things.
I’ve been here for two weeks now and I can’t tell you how many times the power went out and that, even in Lilongwe (the capital). This means that the ATM machine won’t work, that you can recharge your electronic devices, you have no light, the restaurants can’t cook most of the stuff on the menu. I’ve heard that it often extends for a few days, so the food that needs to be refrigerated go bad, etc. I’m only talking about the power outage in the cities or town, but remember that most villages in periphery of the towns don’t have electricity at all.
Same for the water, the other day, I was in a small hostel in Lilongwe and all of a sudden, none of the taps were functionning. I realized soon enough that the entire neibourhood did not have any running water. It took a few days to fix the problem. Breakdowns like this happen all the time in Malawi, for different reasons. Once again, it is to be noted that there is no running water system, nor sewer system outside the cities and towns. Villages’ water is coming from a protected drilled borehole or a shallow well when they are lucky, otherwise, they get their water from an unprotected waterpoint such as a creek, a river or a puddle.
…
On the other hand, here are the things that makes Malawi so special and that our western culture does not prioritize:
One thing I love and respect about the Malawian culture is how they make the best of the situation. Since they can’t be efficient because of logistic problems, they take the time and actually make a point of socializing and helping each other.
At the end of the day, there is one thing we rarely take for granted although this thing is what really matters here: the people around you, your community, your familly and friends. Even though they have close to nothing, they will go out of their way to help each other. They are caring, welcoming, genuienely friendly, smiling and I want to say happy. Think about it next time you pass a coworker or neighbour and you look down instead of smiling and greeting them. I honestly think this strength is one of the most amazing force of Malawians. Even though they don’t have much and can’t dream big, they are more happy and way less depressed than the average north americain. There is a lot to learn from being more community oriented than individually oriented.
I can’t say if one world is better than the other as we all have our flaws, and the main difference are huge, but I know that a combination of both would be fantastic.
Morning number three, beatiful sunny day. So far, I got to the hospital for minor problems, got biten by bed begs, got a sun burn, got a hot shower and had a lot of fun during my in country training. I even had few lessons of Chichewa, I’ll have to learn and most importantly remember what I’m learning. It is not an easy language, or I should say that the structure of the language is completely, completely different than any language I know.
Anyway, I don’t have a ot of time to chat with you guys this morning, but I just wanted to give a quick update so thay you know what’s happening.
The flights and lay over were long but good and nothing happened. We’ve been in Lilongwe since Thursday. We had training and dinner with our team members. Today, I’m leaving for Nkata Bay by bus (or mini-vus, not sure!) until Wednesday. I’ll be shadowing Devon (another EWB staff) in is day to day work and life. I’ll also stay in a village for a night or two! Yay. Oh, yeah, and just so you know, Nkata Bay is by Malawi Lake and it is suppose to be warm and gorgeous, I might have my first swim. On Wednesday night there is a meeting in Mzuzu with Duncan (EWB) and Jim from Water For People, shall be interesting. We’ll be back for a team meeting in Lilongwe on Friday. Then sometimes next week, I’ll be heading north for a month to do a research project. I’ll have to learn Tumbuka (language spoken in the north). The project is about the willingness of the communities to pay for their water and waterpoint repairs as they are suppose to, but it is so far not working well and not everywhere. I’ll update you on that later. I’ll have to go on the field with a motorcycle (and my helmet!), talk to people and everything. I can’t wait. After that month, I’ll be placed somewhere else for three months at least starting to work in my placement. And, sorry folks, I still don’t know where this will be as there are many possibilities, I’ll know next weekend I think.
Ok, so I have to go, I have a morning meeting with Owen.
Talk to you soon
Ge